Took surfing lessons today in Bolinas from the folks at 2 Mile Surf Shop. Though Great Whites cruise those waters in fall, it’s pretty safe now. At least our instructor told me there hadn’t been an attack in eight years. I’ll take those odds.
Now I’d love to tell you that I caught successive waves while hanging ten each time, but I couldn’t even hang five. My longest ride was three seconds on a modest-sized wave. The rest of the time IÂ wiped outÂ just to climb back on again. But the surfer dudes said that was a good start. I hope so. Anyway I have all summer to improve.